На ! перевод с языка на заранее surfing surfing is unusual and difficult, it’s more an art than a sport. it’s not one of the sports where you meet your friends or your may depend on their help. in surfing you are absolutely on your own with something very fast and complicated (сложный). a great number of people don’t understand this sport. for them, surfing is climbing a board and riding a wave into the beach. in fact, one fights with a wave and controls it. to achieve this control one needs some special techniques. you should be able to turn at a proper angle (угол), to slow down, etc. it is important to move around the board, to use your body weight to make the board work for you. all the time you should face the wave thinking over what you are going to do next. speed (скорость) is the most exciting thing in surfing. in the fastest part of the wave the board moves at nearly 45 kilometres an hour. nowadays surfboards are light and made of modern materials. they are different from old long, narrow and heavy boards of the past when captain cook first saw them in hawaii in 1778.
